The ever so raved about Amalfi Coast turned out to be our worst nightmare. Motorhomes technically aren’t allowed to drive on Amalfi Road and we soon realised why – picture one tiny road that can barely fit two cars passing (let alone a bus and a van) curving around the mountainside and frequently dipping into tiny villages. Thankfully we are a lot smaller than a normal motorhome, however we are still twice the size of everything else so it was ridiculously sketchy and slow going.
As we reached the end of the road, both our tempers boiling, we pulled over into the first decent sized carpark to reassess the situation. Basically, there was no suitable parking and only one or two campsites that we had already driven past (with absolutely no intention of back tracking to). Most campers elect to stay in Sorrento or even Pompeii because of these issues but this equalled a lengthy bus trip to even reach Positano, let alone Amalfi.
We resigned to the fact that visiting the Amalfi Coast in a camper is not ideal and figured we would come back and do it in style next time (hello, honeymoon?).
After a somewhat stressful morning, Jack quickly searched for an alternate spot close by and we landed in a little town just south of the Amalfi called Laura. After spending the last week in the Cinque Terre were you have to hike to get anywhere and Rome where it was just stinking hot all the time, Laura ticked all our boxes – a simple parking lot right next to a sandy beach, for free! We set up camp for two nights and just enjoyed being salty again.
We talked about heading further south but figured we would instead go east to stay on track with our ‘rough’ itinerary. This lead us to a spot at Trullo Beach in Molfetta. It was a simple parking lot attached to a beach club for 10€ a night, facilities included – we ended up staying 2 nights.
The owners were super cruisey and nothing was ever a hassle. Each night the beach club was packed with locals cooking their own food over charcoal and enjoying the summer night. The beach itself was dreadful – horrible sized rocks (not big, but not small) and shallow water. Regardless, all in all a nice stop.
From Molfetta we headed north and found another magnificent sandy beach in Tortoreto. There was a small area reserved for motorhomes on the beach front and parking for 24 hours was 10€.
Turned out to be super noisy (apparently Italians don’t sleep?!?!?) but we spent 2 nights here anyway, just enjoying the ocean and sun. There was also a giant cycleway separating us from the beach that was lined with beach clubs and eateries and loads of (infuriatingly ignorant) people armed with bicycles.
We left this sandy haven on Sunday morning and drove north, not stopping until we reached Venice. We arrived late afternoon and pulled into an RV Park in San Giuliano which is still on the mainland and only a 10 minute bus ride into Venice. For 18€ a night, it has all the essentials – showers (yes!), toilets, laundry etc. Looking forward to exploring Venice over the coming days.
Until Week Thirteen! Arrivederci x
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